What They Actually Do for Your Hair
Let’s settle this once and for all: oils do not moisturize your hair.
This is one of the most common misconceptions in the natural hair space. If you’ve been slathering oils and butters on dry strands expecting hydration only to still experience breakage and dryness, you’re not alone. In this episode of the Hair Growth Series, we’re breaking down what oils, butters, and grease actually do, when they help, and when they might be hurting your progress.
Oils Are Sealants, Not Moisturizers
Let’s be clear: moisture = water. If your hair is dry, no oil in the world will hydrate it unless you’re sealing in actual moisture.
Oils work by locking in moisture that’s already been added through a water-based product like a leave-in conditioner or moisturizing cream. If your hair is already dry and you apply oil, you're sealing in that dryness, creating brittle strands and buildup.
✔️ Correct use of oils:
-
After moisturizing your hair
-
As a sealant to retain hydration
-
During scalp massages to boost blood flow
Best Oils for Natural Hair & Scalp
Here are a few popular oils and how to use them effectively:
Jojoba Oil & Rosemary Oil
These are excellent for scalp massages and daily use. They’re lightweight, non-greasy, and mimic your scalp’s natural oils.
Castor Oil
Castor oil is heavier and ideal for sealing ends or boosting growth. Use sparingly and always over hydrated hair.
✔️ Recommended Product:
Invigorate Sealing Oil – A lightweight, nutrient-rich blend perfect for sealing in moisture and nurturing the scalp. Use it after your leave-in to lock in hydration and add shine.
Butters: Moisture Retention for Thicker Textures
Shea butter, mango butter, and other natural butters are emollients, they soften the hair and create a barrier that prevents moisture from escaping. They’re especially beneficial for:
-
Thicker or high-porosity hair
-
Protective styles
-
Harsh climates where hair dries out quickly
Butters don’t add moisture, they help retain it. When used after hydrating products, they can extend the lifespan of moisture and improve manageability.
✔️ When to use:
-
After applying a leave-in or moisturizing cream
-
To smooth and set twist-outs or braid-outs
-
To protect ends during protective styling
Recommended Product:
Supple Twisting Butter – Rich in nourishing butters and oils, this styling butter is perfect for sealing in moisture, adding definition, and reducing frizz especially in twist-outs and other long-lasting styles.
A little goes a long way, especially for finer textures. Always apply after your hair has been properly moisturized to avoid sealing in dryness.
Grease & Heavy Pomades: Use With Caution
Grease and heavy pomades aren’t inherently bad but misuse is common. They are occlusive, meaning they form a thick barrier that can block both moisture and air if overused.
✔️ Proper use of grease or pomade:
-
Only on clean, moisturized hair
-
Sparingly, to seal ends or hold down styles
-
With regular clarifying to prevent buildup
✘ Avoid using grease:
-
On dry, unwashed hair
-
Layered over multiple products
-
Without cleansing the scalp weekly
Too much grease can lead to clogged follicles, flakes, and stunted growth especially if not washed out properly.
What Happens When Oils, Butters & Grease Are Misused
The misuse of these products is one of the top contributors to common issues like:
1. Buildup
Layering oils and butters without moisture or proper cleansing can lead to a filmy coating on your strands. This keeps moisture out and makes your hair feel dry, heavy, or flaky.
2. Flakes
Flakes are often mistaken for dandruff, but many times they’re just product residue. When heavy sealants sit on the hair for too long without being washed away, they begin to flake off.
3. Clogged Follicles
When applied excessively to the scalp without cleansing, oils and pomades can clog the follicles—leading to irritation, inflammation, and slow growth.
4. Sealing in Dryness
Applying oil or butter to unmoisturized hair locks in dryness, which makes strands prone to breakage and split ends.
How to Use Oils, Butters & Grease the Right Way
✔️ Step 1: Moisturize First
Start with a water-based product to hydrate your strands.
✔️ Recommended Product:
Enrich Leave-In Conditioner – A lightweight, hydrating leave-in packed with clean ingredients that smooth the cuticle and prep the hair for sealing.
✔️ Step 2: Seal In Moisture
Follow up with an oil or butter to lock in the hydration. Use your sealant sparingly and focus on the ends.
✔️ Recommended Pairing:
-
Moisturize with Enrich Leave-In
-
Follow with Nourish Moisturizing Cream
-
Finish with Invigorate Sealing Oil
✔️ Step 3: Clarify Regularly
To avoid buildup, wash your hair thoroughly with a clarifying cleanser every 2–4 weeks.
✔️ Recommended Product:
Miracle 3-in-1 Clay Wash – A triple-action detox treatment that cleanses the scalp, removes buildup, and restores moisture, all in one step.
✔️ Step 4: Listen to Your Hair
Your hair will tell you what it needs. If it feels heavy, itchy, or dull, it may be time to clarify or reduce how often you use heavy products.
Final Thoughts: Oils, Butters & Grease Have Their Place—Use Them With Intention
The issue isn’t oils, butters, or grease. It’s how and when we use them. With the right knowledge and a consistent routine, these products can play a vital role in your hair’s moisture retention and health.
Remember:
✔️ Moisture comes first
✔️ Oils and butters seal—not hydrate
✔️ Grease is for occasional use on clean, moisturized hair
✔️ Buildup can block growth—clarify regularly
✔️ Less is more—use what your hair actually needs
Understanding how to use your products properly is just as important as the products themselves. When used intentionally, oils, butters, and grease can support moisture retention, reduce breakage, and help you get closer to your hair goals.